Alex's Notes on Danbury Ridge
Wineries often proclaim their commitment to the highest possible quality, but to see if the walk matches the talk, you need to go behind the scenes.
I had that opportunity at Danbury Ridge, joining the winemaking team for the 2023 vintage. I can say with confidence: this producer's commitment to quality is uncompromising.
TL;DR
Producing fine, intense, ageworthy wine demands obsessive care: tightly controlled yields, only bringing in the very best fruit via hand-harvesting and manual sorting of fruit on arrival at the winery, and extraordinary attention to detail in the winery.
Danbury Ridge practices precision wine-growing and it’s hard work and expensive, especially with Pinot Noir - the most challenging and low-yielding of varieties.
Owners, Winemaker, and Ethos
Owned by the Bunker family and run by sisters Janine and Sophie, with Liam Idzikowski (pictured) heading up the winemaking, their dedication to excellence is extraordinary and their standards of cleanliness and level of sacrifice would strike most as obsessive. Even my own OCD was occasionally outdone - though admittedly, that was usually after many hours of intense physical graft! But to turn up the dial on wine quality as far as the dial will turn, year after year, it can't be overstated how incredibly dedicated and obsessive you have to be. There is almost a religious aspect to producing wine of such quality. As wine and travel writer Rosamund Hall states, "the intensity of the work that goes into making these wines is next level."
You can’t, though, consistently make fine wines in an unhygienic winery without resorting to high levels of additives, such as sulphur dioxide, and heavy filtration (that will reduce quality), which Danbury Ridge is determined to avoid.
Absolutely no corners cut
Danbury Ridge’s approach to barrels is a perfect example of how their commitment to excellence runs through absolutely everything they do.
Barrel prep is next level: some wineries only wash and steam used barrels, leaving new ones untouched. Yet new barrels can harbour spoilage compounds such as Acetobacter and Brettanomyces (“Brett”), if perhaps at a lower probability than older barrels.
At Danbury Ridge, every single barrel - new or used - is cleaned and steamed with surgical thoroughness, reducing the risk of taint to near zero. Steaming also significantly reduces the harsher tannins naturally present in new oak - a harshness the winemaker doesn’t want.
And the barrels themselves? Only the best, mostly from François Frères - suppliers to elite producers like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, whose bottles cost in the thousands.
Sustainability
Meticulous winery hygiene not only takes a lot of hard work, but also vast amounts of water - often more than ten litres for every litre of wine produced. To meet this need sustainably, Danbury Ridge has therefore built a naturally fed six-million-litre reservoir on the estate.
All wastewater is purified - first through straw bales that filter out solids, and then via a series of ecologically balanced wetland cells - before being safely returned to the natural waterways.
Optimal Conditions & Careful Yield Management
At Danbury Ridge, yields are ruthlessly limited, from around six bunches to, in some vintages, as little as one per vine (with lesser producers cropping at over twenty bunches per vine), while alcohol levels here reach 13 to 13.5% naturally (i.e. from sugars produced naturally in the grapes rather than from any added sugar), the sweet spot for Pinot Noir.
Terroir
Danbury Ridge’s vineyards lie just a stone’s throw from their state-of-the-art winery, equidistant between the Blackwater and Crouch rivers, just outside the village of Danbury and less than five miles southwest of Maldon, of sea salt fame.
Danbury Ridge sits atop a mosaic of five distinct soil types: deep gravel, sandy clay, calcareous marl (a mix of clay and limestone), illite and smectite clay.
Illite and smectite clays are not only known for producing robust, generous wines (and some of the world's most expensive red wines e.g. Château Pétrus of Pomerol) but they are also renowned for their water-holding capacity, and in this part of England, where rainfall is noticeably far lower than average, that matters.
What also matters is that the vines can't access this water easily, they have to send their roots deep into the soil to access whatever small amounts of water they can find while picking up minerals and nutrients along the way.
The water is hidden in narrow intermittent layers of the clay and is essentially drip-fed via the extensive root systems to the vines above, ensuring the vines remain in a state of stress during the growing season.
A stressed vine is working hard to survive and produces a limited number of small, concentrated berries (to attract the birds for seed dispersal) with, lucky for us, the potential to make high quality wine; a happy vine with a constant supply of abundant and readily-available water will do the opposite!
It is so dry, in fact, that the vineyards are equipped with irrigation hoses. They’re not needed every year, but when rainfall can be virtually absent for over five months during the growing season, they can prove invaluable to prevent the vines going into shut down.
Frontier Wine Making
Since their first vintage in 2018 (although they'd been selling their fruit for a few years prior), Danbury Ridge has drawn comparisons to some of the world’s top producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay - an astonishing achievement.
So much so that global heavyweights Jackson Family Wines, who make fine wines in the US, Australia, France, Italy, Chile and South Africa, bought and planted 27 hectares of land nearby in 2023, and they’re about to be followed by several Burgundy producers.
The appeal is clear:
- Complex, Pinot Noir-friendly soils
- A dry climate with consistently high ripeness levels that support still wine production. The autumns here are dry and sunny allowing for the grapes to have a long 'hang time' on the vine, to achieve full phenolic i.e. flavour ripeness.
- Low frost and hail risk (both significant issues elsewhere, particularly in Burgundy)
- Land prices that when compared to other wine regions - especially Burgundy - are still low (although they are becoming increasingly less so).
Danbury Ridge has not experienced crop failure since their first harvest 10 years ago.
Grapes of Greatness
Danbury Ridge majors in Burgundy's favourite grapes: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Where Pinot Noir performs, it inspires cult followings and commands a premium.
The same can be said of the best Chardonnays.
Indeed Chardonnay - in its finest form - would be my desert island wine.
Performance is not guaranteed with either: many Chardonnays are made for glugging - there are over 80 different clones, it is highly adaptable, and vast yields are possible; and it is not for nothing that Pinot Noir is known as the “heartbreak” grape.
Picky Pinot Noir
Unlike most grape varieties, Pinot Noir thrives in cool, dry climates, though still with sufficient warmth to reach a suitable level of ripeness, especially if making a still wine.
In excessive and prolonged heat, Pinot loses its vibrancy and the wine risks being soupy; in wet conditions, its thin skin is prone to rot.
Pinot Noir doesn't make economic sense as a mass produced wine - there are so many cultivars that will do a better job for you in terms of yield and quality.
Pinot Noir at very high yields produces wine lacking in character, while it demands so much more care and attention in the vineyard with its thin, delicate skin and compact bunches.
It needs diurnal range i.e. cool nights to preserve acidity for freshness, vibrancy, persistence, ageability, and to keep alcohol moderate; Pinot Noir rarely works style-wise at or beyond 14.5% alcohol like, say, Cabernet Sauvignon might.
Burgundy's Beneficiary
The Liv-Ex Burgundy 150 Index has risen over 650%.
Many of us are now priced out of Burgundy - at least the better/best producers of the Côtes de Beaune & Nuits.
This is in part due to supply issues - many recent vintages have been hit by either frost, hail, and/or excessive heat - e.g. grower and winemaker Raphaelle Guyot (whose wines I love) lost her ENTIRE crop to frost in 2021, as did many others.
In fact, Burgundy suffered one of its worst yield collapses in modern history that year, losing around 30–50% of its normal production, with white wine areas in the Côte de Beaune losing up to 80% due to the catastrophic April frost and a cold, wet season.
The Crouch Valley (and in time I suspect other parts of East Anglia), however, has low frost risk, and almost non-existent hail risk (at least for now!).
This is much of the reason why Domaine Duroché, a prestigious family-run Burgundy estate, are partnering with Danbury Ridge to
produce Crouch Valley Pinot Noir & Chardonnay, with their first release expected in 2028.
As Rosamund Hall asserts, Domaine Duroché are "one of Burgundy’s finest producers" and the relationship with Danbury Ridge was born "after winemaker Pierre Duroché tasted the 2021 Pinot Noir and was deeply impressed."
Pierre would also have been acutely aware how tricky the 2021 vintage was across Northern Europe yet Danbury Ridge was
still able to produce such a high quality wine in acceptable, if reduced, volumes.
A New Fine Wine Region is Being Born
Domaine Duroché, are not the only ones heading over from Burgundy: it has also been announced that one of the finest producers of Chassagne Montrachet, Bernard
Moreau et Fils, will be teaming up with the nearby Missing Gate vineyard to produce a Crouch Valley Chardonnay.
In the words of Rosamund Hall, Bernard Moreau et Fils is, "an outstanding producer of some of the world’s finest Chardonnays."
These Burgundians clearly believe that some of the world's finest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are being made here, and they want
in on the action. Especially as broadening their production in Burgundy itself is no easy task.
I suspect they are also in the process of buying land (as other Burgundy producers are rumoured to be), but this remains unconfirmed. Certainly the arrival to the area of Jackson Family Wines has been a real game changer.
Price vs Value
Danbury Ridge's wines are of course not 'cheap' but for what they deliver in quality relative to those from other fine wine regions, they actually represent great value.
Rosamund Hall says: "They are completely worth their price tag, and offer great value for money for the wine in your glass. Whisper it, they offer better value than Burgundy at the same price, especially for the Chardonnays."
I have been saying this for some time. Maybe the involvement of Burgundians will help others catch up.
Just like the domaines of Burgundy, Danbury Ridge produce very small quantities and there's not enough to go round; their wines are on allocation and sell out immediately.
A Bargain in Comparison
I can rarely afford to drink a bottle of equivalent Burgundy, or Pinot Noir/ Chardonnay produced in California/ Oregon/ Australia (e.g. favourites Giaconda, £150+, Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay, £90), but a £40-odd bottle of Danbury Ridge every now and again is an equivalent treat that is more in reach.
The Danbury Ridge wines are a fraction of the price of equivalent quality Burgundy, if Burgundy must be the comparison. In terms of the ratings by the experts, some examples: Neal Martin (NM) gave 92 points to Danbury Ridge's 2022 Chardonnay; he gave the same score to Château de Chassagne-Montrachet 2022 - which costs £70 - and Jean-Louis Chavy's Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2023 - which costs £120.
Where Meursault is concerned, it has got even crazier; one of my favourite producers now charges 200 euros for their entry-level Meursault, which the opulence of Danbury Ridge's 2022 Chardonnay reminds me of!
You Heard it Here First
Over the last few decades, the wine world has been stunned by the quality emerging from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialists in Oregon, New Zealand, and South Africa’s Hemel-en-Aarde Valley in particular.
Now, it’s the Crouch Valley’s turn!
Danbury Ridge Wines
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Example product title
Regular price £19.99 GBPRegular priceSale price £19.99 GBP