France: Domaine Vincent Pinard - Sancerre "Harmonie" 2023/2024, Loire Valley (Organic & Biodynamic, Vegan-Friendly)

Grape variety: 100% Sauvignon Blanc grown organically and biodynamically, meaning zero use of chemical pesticides and synthetic fertiliser, with adoption of the highest possible environmental standards. 13% alcohol 2023 vintage, 12.5% 2024 vintage.

Sauvignon Blanc is such a ubiquitous grape variety that it’s easy to forget that, in the right hands, it is capable of greatness. Two of its finest proponents are Clement and Florent Pinard, who have been producing the wines at their father’s eponymous domaine for almost two decades.

This is a stellar producer, one of the very best of Sancerre. I have known their wines for a very long time, having sold them in the wine shop I ran in South Kensington in the late 90's, my first job in the trade.

The brothers leave no stone unturned in the pursuit of brilliance: green harvesting, hand-picking, meticulous sorting, vinifying by vineyard, using selected and specifically cultured local yeasts, and employing large oak barrels for ageing. Do not underestimate the vast amount of work that goes into organic and biodynamic viticulture and winemaking.

The result is a range of wines, both Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, that are brimming with life, as well as being surprisingly age-worthy. I'd wager that not far off every single one of the finest, largest cellars around the world will have at least one Vincent Pinard wine. 

Sancerre is a great little town to visit, occupying a hilltop, or you might call it a very large mound! It sits high above the Loire river giving it wide, panoramic views over rolling vineyards and patchwork farmland.

An absolute must when visiting the area is to drink a good Sancerre with the goat's cheese from nearby Chavignol - although of course it's also very worthwhile doing this at home! To me, Sancerre (of high quality) and goat's cheese (Crottin de Chavignol is particular) is one of the greatest food and wine matches. 

Harmonie comes from vines in the lieux-dits Pèlerine and La Plante des Prés, on a mix of Kimmeridgian and Oxfordian limestone. It is aged for up to 12 months, with two thirds in 600-litre demi-muid barrels and one third in large wooden vats.

This is a very fine Sancerre from one of the world's best, and most ethical, producers. 

What the experts say 

94/100 – RVF (La Revue du Vin de France): "radiant… a model of purity”

93/100 – Vinous (Rebecca Gibb MW): "lemon/lime zest....crushed chalk....intense mineral tension"

Food pairing

Seafood of all types, asparagus, grilled vegetables, herb-driven salads, roast poultry, and of course anything with goat's cheese....