Italy: Azienda Agricola Graci - Etna Rosso Nerello Mascalese 2023, Sicily (Organic)

Grape variety: 100% Nerello Mascalese, a variety native to Sicily. Certified organic. 14.5% alcohol. 

Light-to-medium-bodied with great acidity, fine tannins, and a signature volcanic smokiness/mineral undertone. Often compared to Pinot Noir, or Nebbiolo (of Barolo and Barbaresco), for its elegance, perfumed complexity, and ageing potential. Maceration on the skins for 30 days, followed by 18 months ageing in concrete tanks. This really works best served cool i.e. at 'cellar temperature'. 

Founded by Alberto Graci in 2004 when he took on around 30 hectares of long-established vineyards on Etna's northern slopes, this estate is now considered one of Etna's finest, if not the finest.

So fine in fact that Piemonte wine legend Angelo Gaja, whose bottles can fetch in the thousands, has partnered with Alberto to make his own Etna wines. This is quite something given Alberto, now 51, originally trained as a banker in Milan, does not come from a winemaking background, and is self-taught!

Being an 'Azienda Agricola', this means Graci must produce wine only from the estate's own vineyards, meaning they are in total control of quality from grape to glass. Each of their vineyards is certified organic.

The estate is spread over six vineyard areas and all are single-vineyard wines i.e. none of the wines are blended, so that each fully reflects the individual site from where the fruit comes, commonly referred to as 'terroir expression'.

Vine age varies between 15 and 70 years and yields are kept to a bare minimum - cropping at only 3 bunches per vine on average. The high altitude is key to concentrated yet elegant wines which retain incredible acidity - verve and freshness - in an otherwise Mediterranean climate.

Food pairing

Wonderful with game, duck, pasta e.g. alla norma, wild boar ragù, truffle; arancini; mushroom risotto; cured meats, aged cheeses. Certain seafood dishes too: grilled tuna steaks or swordfish served with a tomato-caper sauce - Etna Rosso handles certain seafood dishes exceptionally well when served slightly chilled, while its acidity cuts right through the richness of tomato sauces. 

What the experts say

94 points ("Superb"): Wine Enthusiast - "radiant, loaded with finesse and mineral tension....taut, refined tannins. Saline notes and racy acidity keep it energized. Drink through 2030. — Kerin O’Keefe.

95 points: James Suckling.com 

95 points: Decanter Magazine