Germany: Von Buhl Estate - Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) 2023, Pfalz (Organic)

Grape variety: 100% Spätburgunder, the German name for Pinot Noir. Certified organic. 12.5% alcohol.

Germany has always had many great wine estates and they are now no longer the closely-guarded secrets they once were, thanks mainly to recent generations of enterprising, globally-minded winemakers, but also partially to more consistent quality thanks to a warmer climate.

Von Buhl is one such great estate, one of the most prestigious, with a history dating back to 1849. 

The estate's owners the Niederberger family are renowned for their environmental stewardship, evidenced by the estate's organic certification, as well as their uncompromising dedication to quality. 

They are based in the town of Deidesheim in the Pfalz, just a little north of Alsace and to the south-west of Frankfurt.

Master of Wine Jancis Robinson is in agreement with me, that this is a "super spot" for Pinot Noir, for both quality and price. I am a big fan of German Pinot Noir, as most in the wine trade now are! 

Generalising here, but you could say they are less animal, and more approachable than Burgundy thanks to the lower alcohol, and tend to be less plump than many of the new world; they have a lightness of touch. 

Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir, after France and the US. An ancient variety, it supposedly originated in Burgundy (I say "supposedly" as it is claimed it actually originated in Egypt's Nile Valley or in North Africa).

It is believed to have been first planted in Germany in the Middle Ages, meaning it has likely been cultivated here for roughly 800 years; certainly long enough for the country to have developed its own clones, either naturally or via breeding programmes.

These 'German clones' are now popular in many regions growing Pinot Noir as their clusters are more elongated and open, meaning the berries are less tightly-packed together and therefore more disease resistant than Burgundian clones. 

German clones of Pinot Noir are also prized for their perfumed aromatics and delicacy of fruit, very much evidenced in this filigree, elegant, yet sophisticated wine.

Food Pairing:

Light to medium red-meats: lamb, duck, game, especially with gentle pan sauces or reductions. Herby or earthy dishes e.g. mushrooms, root-vegetables, chestnut/spice, dishes with thyme/rosemary/sage. Delicate poultry or richer fish - think duck breast, roast chicken with herbs, salmon or trout with light jus or berry-glaze. And lovely with a decent Chinese takeaway! 

What the critics say:

91 points, The Falstaff Magazine: "juicy fruit, mineral freshness, fine acid thread, a very delicate, subtle Pinot with amazing differentiation for this price range."